From sjohnson@pcocd2.intel.com Tue May 26 18:56:43 1998
Date: Fri, 22 May 1998 08:26:48 -0700
From: Steven Johnson 
To: mojo@rps.net
Subject: FAQ for Air-Cooled VWs: Tools

                 FAQ for Air-Cooled VWs: Tools

This is the VW FAQ Part 2/3 which deals with what tools to get. 
This Tool FAQ was written and compiled by James Brill.  Most of the 
input is from the vintage vw mailing list.  Please feel free to give 
input.  If you want to give input on tools, you should first send it 
to James Brill so that he can make sure it isn't already addressed 
and add it to the list.  If you want to debate some items on rec.autos
.vw or the vintage mailing list, then feel free to do so.  More input 
will help maintain the FAQ and keep it up to date.  

Steven Johnson/ sjohnson@pcocd2.intel.com

********************************************************************
From: jbrill@unlinfo.unl.edu (James Brill)

Ok, here it is.  It has been through as many editions.  I don't think 
a single person's suggestion went unnoticed, unless it was already 
here.  I will say this again:  there are flaws in here.  For instance,
we should figure out the thing about torx vs star heads.  Whoever is 
in charge of such things can certainly include this in a FAQ.  I 
wouldn't mind my name staying with it as I welcome suggestions and 
additions.  It was asked if I was interested in including prices.  I 
will leave that to someone else.  I don't think I want to know.  I can
tell you that I spent >$300 this weekend and didn't make a dent.  I 
got home and realized I had spent just shy of $50 on screwdrivers.  
Talk about a guy with a loose screw.  Oh well, enjoy.  Jim

---cut here---

This would be a list of tools that you should have to work on your VW.
It is a compilation of suggestions I received from people.  There are 
tools on the list you might never need but others have found useful. 
There are always corrections and additions to be made to the list.  I 
have not addressed the issue of years vs model or air vs water.  I 
will leave that much more complicated list to someone else.  Ideally, 
there could be a list for each year and model.  Please forward all 
suggestions and corrections to me and I will update and repost from 
time to time.  If you ever want another list just let me know and I 
will mail you one.  It should be noted that I don't want to start
big debates about what kind of torque wrench is best, etc.  If the one 
listed is adequate for most, and cheaper and more easily available, 
then we should leave it at that.  Same goes for the rest.

Suggestions, etc to:      Jim Brill   jbrill@unlinfo.unl.edu

FIRST OFF, GET SOME EYE PROTECTION.  AFTER YOU ARE IN THE EMERGENCY 
ROOM IS THE WRONG TIME TO BE WISHING YOU HAD BEEN WEARING SOME.

Secondly, buy a FIRE EXTINGUISHER.  Put it under or behind your front 
seat.  Make sure your frequent passengers and mechanical assistants 
know where it is and how to work it.  These are $10-$15 at K-Mart in 
the U.S.  Four things will kill your love - wrecks, neglect, rust and 
fire.

GENERAL COMMENTS

When buying tools from Sears be sure to get the Craftsman brand and 
not the Sears brand.  The former is superior in quality and carries the
infamous lifetime guarantee.

Snap On and Mac tools, available in the U.S., will have a nicer finish
and might be more heavy duty but will probably not be worth the price 
difference for just about anyone short of a professional.  Also, when 
you break a tool at three o'clock on Sunday afternoon you know where 
the Sears will be parked.  As far as I know those other brands are only
available from the person driving a truck around selling to shops.

Check the sales at Sears around Father's Day and other holidays aimed 
at buying things for your average manly man.  Also, go there and get 
their Power & Hand Tools catalog.  It has some sets and other tools 
not available in the stores.

You should look for one of the prepackaged semi-huge all metric sets 
of sockets, etc.  They have all three sizes of ratchets and sockets, 
deep and shallow drives.  There will also be various extension and 
adaptor lengths.  If you wait for the right sale you might even get 
10% off or a free toolbox or set of pliers.  Notice that some gaps do 
exist in the sizing.  For instance, you can skip a lot of 1/2" drive 
sockets.  A good deal would be to get a set that goes up to 21 or 23mm
and then buy those larger ones by themselves.  A full set from 10-36mm
might look nice but many of the larger ones will rust waiting to be 
used on your VW.  Same caution should be applied to the purchase of 
box-end/open-end wrenches.

Some of the suggestions here are obviously overdone.  I am striving to
get a complete set of tools listed.  Most people could to a tuneup and
many other repairs with about 10% of the items on this list.  The 
suggestions made are usually done with the goal of having the right 
tool for the job (which also has a safety factor) and long term cost 
savings.

Finally, tools are in that rare breed of retail item that almost 
always gives value for money.  Stick with a good brand and buy what 
you can afford.  A $100 tool will probably more than twice out live 
its $50 cousin.  This could prove particularly useful in the middle of
nowhere on a cold rainy night, 20 years later...

RATCHETS

     1/2"  3/8"  1/4"  drives

     Torque wrench -- 1/2" drive, ratcheting type seems preferable to 
the dial type.  Craftsman 1/2" bi-directional goes 20-150 pounds, part
# (9)44543, and comes recommended.

     Breaker bars -- a 3/4" size for brake, bearing and other heavy 
duty work is recommended to almost end breaking fears.  On the other 
hand, most have gotten by with 1/2" and 3/8" drives, which do have 
that lifetime guarantee at Sears.  Seems to be that if you only want 
to own two of these get the 3/4" and 3/8".

SOCKETS

     3/4" -- 36mm for gland nuts and brake drums.  Again, some have 
gotten by with 1/2" for this.  Buy as needed for 21-36mm.

     1/2" -- 10,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,30,36mm  full hexagon if you 
can get 'em.  i.e. six point as opposed to twelve.

     3/8" -- 10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19mm
          -- 10,11,12,13,14,15,17,19mm  deep drive

     1/4" -- 4,5,6,7,8,9,10mm

     hex-head -- should be available in a set for about $20, or you 
might just need one for your CV joints and could buy just the size for
your vehicle.

     torx-head -- if this is a 12 sided thing then a 6mm on has been 
suggested for cv work.  [Can someone else verify?]

     star-head -- appropriate size if you have replaced your CV bolts 
with Porsche bolts, highly recommended by some.

     extensions 1/2" -- 3",6",9",12"+

     		3/8" -- 3",6"

     adaptors -- 1/2" to 3/8" and/or 3/4" to 1/2"

     universal joint adaptor, get a 3/8" if you are only buying one
     
     1/2" T-bar, probably not needed if the have the same size ratchet

SCREWDRIVERS

     Rechargeable electric w/interchangeable bits for tight spots and 
general ease on the wrist.

     Ridiculously large flat blade screwdriver with a lifetime 
guarantee. (TM)

     At least one with interchangeable bits and allen heads.  A good 
rechargeable one might have all these bits.

     Stubby type sizes and everything up to the large one above.

     Impact screwdriver

WRENCHES

     Open-end/Box-end  6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,15,17,19,21

     "C" shaped brake wrenches in 8,10,12mm and whatever size needed 
to bleed your brakes.

PLIERS

     Needle nose, circlip, wire crimping, channel lock, regular, side 
cutters, sheet metal sheers, if you can find 'em cheap medical 
hemostats are nice for clipping off vacuum hoses and fuel lines.

VISE GRIPS

     Needle nose, small, large.  Good advice here it to get the Vise 
Grip brand.  Made in De Witt, Nebraska.

PULLERS/CLAMPS

     Wheel bearing seal puller, "G" type clamps (I assume this is a 
lot like a "C" clamp), two armed gear puller 3" and 6" bar, harmonic 
balancer puller (not needed on air-cooleds), brake drum puller (for 
serious mechanics)
     
ALLEN/HEX HEAD WRENCHES

     2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,17mm  Ball type drive ones are nice, 
too, if you can find them.  The big mutha is for the transaxle fluid. 
The others should be available as a set in a little bag.

CRESCENT WRENCHES
     
     6,12,18"

CHISELS/PUNCHES

     Center punch, flat-end punch for door hinge pins.

     Chisels have been seen sold in sets with a 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" 
blade.  If you only have the bread for one, get the big one.

HAMMERS

     Both small and large in hard and rubber, ball peen, too.  2 pound
sledge.

DRILL

     3/8" variable speed with reverse.  Heavy-duty type if you can 
spring for it.  Cordless ones are nice if you aren't fond of 
extension cords.

     Metal cutting bits.

     Easy outs, for removing bolts with broken heads.

MISC

     Little mechanics mirror on extendable handle for looking into 
places smaller than your head.

     Fluorescent trouble light, no burns, more shockproof.

     Pickle fork for front-end work.

     One magnetic-type and one claw-type grabber for picking up things
through holes smaller than your hand.

     Reamer, for making small holes larger.

     Timing light

     Tach-dwell-volt meter

     Multi-tester

     Grease gun with flexible hose.

     Compression guage, get the type with the screw-in head and 
pressure release button, so you can do it yourself.

     5' fence post makes a nice cheater bar

     You can never have too many 10 or 13mm wrenches or sockets

     Feeler guage, consensus has it that you should spend a little 
extra on the nice one.  Think about what a 0.001" distance is and how 
much you like your valves.  The step type is easier to use.

     Spark plug gapper

     Plasti-guage

     Micrometer

     Steel ruler

     Broom handle, maybe two if you are working on the front end like 
Muir.

     Pocket knife, razor blade type cutter.

     Hacksaw

     Hand cleaner, gloves, ear plugs, latex gloves

     WD-40

     Liquid wrench

     Propane torch

     Oxyacetylene torch, for when the above doesn't work

     Clutch alignment tool, a.k.a.:  wooden dowel

     Ring compressor

     Spring compressor, to assist when installing new brake shoes.

     Valve spring compressor

     Battery charger

     Old tooth brushes

     Wire brush

     3-ton floor jack, spend the money and get the good one with the 
twist-control handle.  Experience has it that a $150 jack will more 
than pay for itself in fewer trips to the store to replace the $40 
ones.

     6-ton jack stands

     Tape:  electrical, duct

     Wire:  electrical, bailing

     Test light

     Brake adjusting tool, better than a screwdriver for this purpose.
Also good for all around prying.

     Tap and die set, metric

     File, sandpaper

     Funnel

     Axe and/or hatchet

     Lug wrench

SPARE PARTS

	I will not go into this.  My own philosophy on this one has 
been to buy two if I can afford it, so I have one for the next time.  
At a minimum I should guess clutch, throttle cable and some fuel hose.
Muir would be a good place to fill this in some.  It has been 
discussed before.  Basically don't throw away a working electrical 
part when you are replacing them, coil, spark plugs, points.  A spare 
oil filter, drain plug......I could triple this file, but I won't.

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